Friday, March 22, 2013

my final sloper - tested and it fits :)

as promised.  i am going to share some of the photos that i have taken myself.  i tried to take some photos with the sloper on, but it was hard to get a clear view of the shoulder and the sleeve.  so, i improvised some props.  i used a mini bolster for the close-up photos.  and here they are:-


one of the shoulders.
and the neckline.


frontal side view of one of the sleeves.

front view.
 and there's the mini bolster.

another angle showing the shoulder seam.
and the neckline.
i think i nailed this :))

side view of one of the sleeves.

yet another view if the shoulder seam.
and the neckline.

side view of one of the sleeves.

frontal side view.

the sloper on a hanger.
it hangs pretty well.
and the sleeves hang pretty well too.
i am so pleased.

one of the sleeves.
love the way it hangs :)

the other sleeve.

that's my arm holding the camera to take this photo.
yep...no strain across the arm.  no more pinching-my-arm-sleeves...yeay!!

that's my arm at rest.
the sleeve head looks pretty good.
and no shoulder pads used.


some of my references for forward thrust shoulder adjustment are,
here
and
here
and
here
and here too.

and that's the end of one chapter.  and there was another daunting issue of a perfect set-in sleeve.... how to stitch it onto the armhole of the bodice.  that's another pain that i had to go through for the past one month.  but i nailed that one too.

oh what a feeling :)
YunY


why am i so obsessed with the perfect sleeve

i have been tweaking my own dress sloper and a month has passed by (it was not easy....with the kids and the house and the rabbits).  it was like trying to solve a huge and complicated puzzle in the middle of a busy road.

why...do you ask..has the shoulder seam and sleeve become an obsession of mine?  it is because i believe they are the key to perfect fit and comfort.

i have been studying pictures of the fashion runway and i can see that well known designers labels have this ONE thing in common....perfect shoulder seams to set the sleeves.  look at these photos (Elie Saab, Valentino)....focus on their sleeves.





my sloper needs tweaking to adjust for the forward thrust shoulders.  i have used the sloper system from the lucia's book.  the rest works like a charm....but i was stuck when it comes to the shoulders and sleeve.

lucia's sloper system works very well for standard body. my daughter alya, fits in this category.   hers was no problem at all.  everything fits.

will share the photos of my dress sloper in my next post.


cheers,
YunY

Monday, March 4, 2013

i love dresses and i am making them

i've been busy making these dresses for the past few weeks.

i am using the book by lucia and also the one by amstrong as my reference.

i have been having some challenges with the set it sleeves.  since i have forward thrust shoulders, i need to make a series of adjustments to get the sleeve to sit properly while maintaining good fit.

i'm playing with some slash and spread techniques to obtain a nice slimming drape of the fabric. once i am happy with the result i will try to create an empire waist dress with bishop sleeves.

these are the four wips...all of them are made from the cotton yardage that my lil sis brought from india.








just need to finish the necklines and hems.  they are super comfy and cooling.

fyi, i prefer tops and dresses without shoulder pads.  for my case, adjusting the shoulder seams produces better fit than using any commercially available shoulder pads.

cheers,
YunY